Ever wonder ” What do I need for a good loud car stereo system? Want to know what to buy ? Well here’s my first audio set-up . . .

http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

Walking through, and talking about the different components of my stereo…. What you’ll need to be loud

- Follow Me On-
* http://twitter.com/EXOcontralto *
* http://www.myspace.com/EXOcontralto *

Pioneer DEH-P3000ib
Clarion Eqs746
(1) Alpine MRP-M500
(1) Alpine MRP-M1000
(1) Orion HP124- ll @ 2 ohms
(2) Kicker 07CVR412 – S @ 4 ohms
Orion Cobalt 5.25’s
Polk DB 5×7’s
Polk DB 6×9’s
Big Three in 0 Gauge
MCR 200 amp H/O Alternator
(2) Power Akustic PCX’5 Caps

Want Crazy Bass? Look no further. A few of these upgrades will makes any system insanely loud.

Power, distribution, monoblocks, woofers, tweeters, low pass filters, high pass filters, subsonic filters, equalizers, epicenters, bass boards, power stations, regulators, alternators, converters, inverters, ground loop isolators, passive crossovers, active crossovers, 0 gauge cable, big 3 / three upgrade, dynamat, receiver, passive radiator, BassBox, ANL, AGU, MAXI Fuses, The works.

Duration : 0:2:45

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July 26, 2010

This is the stereo system in my ‘02 Subaru Outback. The Speakers are all Polk Audio, the HU is Alpine and the amps are Polk Audio and Quantum Audio. The video quality sucks because I didnt feel like waiting 4 hours to render it and another 12 to upload it, so i just put it in mp4 360×240. Believe it or not this was recorded with an HD camera. lol

Specs:
Head Unit: 2004 Alpine CDM-9821
Speakers: Polk Audio db651 x4
Subwoofers:
-Polk Audio MM1240 x2
-Polk Audio db840dvc x2
Amplifiers:
-Polk Audio PA400.1
-Quantum Audio QSA1500D
-Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack

Total Power (RMS): 2100 watts

Duration : 0:3:8

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July 15, 2010

Crutchfield looks at the Alpine IXA-W404 digital media receiver and how it’s a great match for your iPod or other MP3 player.

Duration : 0:2:24

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July 15, 2010

http://www.SoundManCarAudio.com
http://www.FACEBOOK.com/soundmancaraudio http://www.twitter/soundmanca
Watch Jordan Mann from SoundMan Car Audio install an iPad in a 2004 Nissan Maxima. In this install the iPad is plugged in to an Alpine 205 double din.

Duration : 0:1:37

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http://www.SoundManCarAudio.com
http://FACEBOOK.com/soundmancaraudio http://www.twitter.com/soundmanca
April 3rd, The day of the iPad launch, Doug Bernards installs an iPad in his car alongside an Audison Bit One processor. Planned install will include a McIntosh 6 channel amplifier MCC406M, and a special iPod dock which allows the digital signal to be pulled from the iPad and distributed to the BitOne via optical output. Toyota Tacoma.
Stay tuned for the rest of the build.

Duration : 0:6:21

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The Alpine IVA-W505 DVD receiver delivers great audio performance and touchscreen control. Adding the navigation module gives you navigation and Bluetooth capability without having to mount a hideaway box.

Duration : 0:2:53

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*WARNING EXPLICIT LANGUAGE* *New England SPL* My first time competing in a car audio bass race competition / db drag …

http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

Music Available via iTunes, or Local Music Shops. Never Pirate Music. ~ EXO

Took 2nd place In the Street Max Division at Sanford Sound’s New England SPL Bass Comp…It was between me, and some guy with 16,000 hifonics watts, and ironically, a dodge grand caravan!! You’ll see… I’m all the way at the end. *4:45*

* http://www.myspace.com/exocontralto *

**Contest Results**

http://www.dbdragracing.com/

http://www.newenglandspl.com/

EXO, capturing the epitome of car audio unfolding with insane destructive roof flexing, loud bass pumping 18 inch woofers slammin the pavement, and massive air blow outs with window breaking , shaking , low rumbling bass…. OVER 20,000 + watt systems. This was just ridiculous Sanford Maine will never be the same…..Straight tremendous bass in Sanford Maine. We had Maine , New York , Rhode Island , New Hampshire , Massachusetts , Vermont , & Connecticut ….. Sanford Sounds car audio sound shop. Incredible video… Best video of car audio ever!

My Competition Car Audio Installation

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic – Equalizer
(1) Alpine MRP-M500 – Monoblock
(1) Alpine MRP-M1000 – Monoblock
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range
Big Three in 0 Gauge – Stinger / Tsumani
(1) MCR 200 amp H/O Alternator
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors

Specail Thanks to:
Sanford Sound
T3 Audio Subwoofers
Digital Designs
Hifonics Audio
Beyma Audio
Orion Audio HCCA
Elemental Designs
Stetsom Audio
Audioque
DC Audio Subwoofers
Kicker Audio
Resonant Engineering
MTX Audio
EarthQuake Audio
Alpine Audio
Sundown Audio
Rockford Fosgate
fi Audio
Motor City Reman
Pioneer Premier
Elclipse Audio
US amps
Adire Audio
Polk Audio
Incriminator Audio
Diablo Ampfliers
Hertz Speakers
Iraggi Alternator
Stinger Accessories
Tsunami Power Wire
Kinetic Batteries
Optima Batteries

Mike from team renots New England SPL

Duration : 0:5:33

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June 13, 2010

How to install your car speakers.

Car:
2000 Ford Mustang V6

Stereo:
Alpine CDA-9887
Alpine Type-R 5×7 (x4)
Alpine Type-R Subwoofers (x2)
Alpine PDX1.1000

Duration : 0:3:31

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http://www.mobiledynamics.ca
Alpine’s ultimate listening machine, the BMW X5 visits Mobile Dynamics’ car audio installation training school in Toronto.

Duration : 0:3:21

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DIY with Mike Stiers

http://www.maxxsonics.com

So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.

http://www.hookeraudio.com

The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.

http://www.kinetikpower.com

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MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

Duration : 0:6:12

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